THE CAR AUDIO THREAD..Q&A!
- Thread starter xraidedloc831
- Start date
^^I bet you have exposed wires somewhere. This happened to me awhile back. It made it hella sound like i had blown speakers and I didnt. It turned out one of my rear speakers that I had temporarly wired up without any butt connectors or special wire hookups, just looped the wires in using the exposed wire and let them hang, had somehow been touching as i was driving. I found out later what was happening was when the bass was hitting on the 6x9s, the air from it was causing the wires to move and touch one and other causing the static noise and popping sound from the two touching. When the bass didnt hit everything was fine cause the wires would seperate again. I finally decided to get off my lazy ass and wire them up right and the problem went away. I had to lie on my back in the truck with the music cranked to actually see this happening. the wires were just flapping around from the 6x9s moving. lol sucks to not be able to afford a real system but I got a 2003 Toyota Camry LE now and the stock stereo is coo so I am good. Alot better than the pontiac i had.
I hate to be the bearer of bad news...but chances are, your speakers are blown......lemme explain
Lets just say your deck is 50x4 (watts) thats not RMS, thats maximum power. That means at the lowest ohms your deck will run it will generate 50 watts a channel.
Now what Kenwood or any other manufacturer isn't telling you is that the wattage the say there deck generate's is really only half of what it says it is. Thats becuase when stereos are rated for power, they also rate they amount of heat that the unit generates as part of the power, thats because Heat is energy, and they convert the heat energy into watts.
Having said that now lets look at your speakers. Lets say your 6x9's are 100watts rms. That means they need a MINIMUM of 100 to safely perform basic function. Running any less than that will damage the speaker. Heres how...The speakers will try and reproduce the wave signs from the unit at the coresponding level they receive it. If the speaker is only getting 25 watts of power, the speaker coil will try on its own to produce the extra energy needed. The good news is that It will, the bad news is that the enegery it generates is heat, when the coil overheats the speaker fries. The speaker will still play at normal levels however when you try and crank it up you will actaully hear the heat energy playing through the speaker...IE the clapping or popping.
This doesn't happen right away. In many cases the speaker will still play fine with out the required energy...rpovided its not pushed hard...but once you start to push it hard without the proper wattage...well you just lit the fuse...its only a matter of time then before there ruined.
.......................................................................
There may be another reason as well, if the speakers polarity is backwards it will play the notes however it will do so backwards. Most of the time its hard to tell a difference, unless there amped...but when the wave sign plays backward through the speaker alot of times, the speaker will balk ( clap ) becuase its being fed a note it cant play or wont play, so it substitutes the note by pushing the same wave signs together, when it does that, you will get the speakers interpretation of that sound, most of the time a clap, or a mild distortion.
hope that helped
Lets just say your deck is 50x4 (watts) thats not RMS, thats maximum power. That means at the lowest ohms your deck will run it will generate 50 watts a channel.
Now what Kenwood or any other manufacturer isn't telling you is that the wattage the say there deck generate's is really only half of what it says it is. Thats becuase when stereos are rated for power, they also rate they amount of heat that the unit generates as part of the power, thats because Heat is energy, and they convert the heat energy into watts.
Having said that now lets look at your speakers. Lets say your 6x9's are 100watts rms. That means they need a MINIMUM of 100 to safely perform basic function. Running any less than that will damage the speaker. Heres how...The speakers will try and reproduce the wave signs from the unit at the coresponding level they receive it. If the speaker is only getting 25 watts of power, the speaker coil will try on its own to produce the extra energy needed. The good news is that It will, the bad news is that the enegery it generates is heat, when the coil overheats the speaker fries. The speaker will still play at normal levels however when you try and crank it up you will actaully hear the heat energy playing through the speaker...IE the clapping or popping.
This doesn't happen right away. In many cases the speaker will still play fine with out the required energy...rpovided its not pushed hard...but once you start to push it hard without the proper wattage...well you just lit the fuse...its only a matter of time then before there ruined.
.......................................................................
There may be another reason as well, if the speakers polarity is backwards it will play the notes however it will do so backwards. Most of the time its hard to tell a difference, unless there amped...but when the wave sign plays backward through the speaker alot of times, the speaker will balk ( clap ) becuase its being fed a note it cant play or wont play, so it substitutes the note by pushing the same wave signs together, when it does that, you will get the speakers interpretation of that sound, most of the time a clap, or a mild distortion.
hope that helped
Your Amp has short in the circutry then. Its showing you the light because it thinks the fuse is blown. Although its not that big a deal, I wouldn't push your amp to hard. If the amp thinks the fuse is blown and you try to run the amp hard it may protect itself and clip, which could lead to serious problems. Take your amp to a MECP or CEA installer and have them check the circutry. If they know what there doing it can be a simple fix, however if the amp is still under warranty and you can mail it off, I would. Alot of times instead of fixing the specific problem the companies will simply take your amp shell and put it over a new naked amp. It's an easy way to get a brand new amp...provided you have the required doc's for it.
^^on the contrary, my amp i had was a old Peace of shit boss audio amp. I had a similar problem on it. The protect light was on and if i nugged the amp it would make the subs hit for about two seconds. I looked online and low and behold it still had a 6yr warranty. Old issue was i got the amp on ebay and they wanted proof it was purchased from a dealer. Luckly I had a friend at a car audio shop in modesto who will remain nameless lol and i had him make a fake receipt for me and I mailed it off to them and it turned out that the output speaker terminals on the amp were bad. Everything else was fine but at the point where you connected the speaker wire to the amp is where it wasnt working right. So you see Crazy707 it still could be something small.
Crazy....Loc is right, it still could be something small, mine was just worse case scenario.
Here are the terms you asked about:
MECP - Mobile Electronic Certified professional
CEA - Consumer Electronic Association
Most install shops will have there creds visible......but If they aren't showing either of those two symbols or plauqe's...take your shit elsewhere and quick.
...........................................................
Just for pholkz who aren't up on game. Basic Amp's are rated by class..heres the breakdown
A,B,C - 50% efficient
D - 70% efficient
T - 90% efficient
what does this mean?....It means that at the Lowest possible ohms running at FULL power your amp will only generate the specified % of actual wattage. The rest of the power is disapated heat energy ( which the companies tell you is wattage).
Here are the terms you asked about:
MECP - Mobile Electronic Certified professional
CEA - Consumer Electronic Association
Most install shops will have there creds visible......but If they aren't showing either of those two symbols or plauqe's...take your shit elsewhere and quick.
...........................................................
Just for pholkz who aren't up on game. Basic Amp's are rated by class..heres the breakdown
A,B,C - 50% efficient
D - 70% efficient
T - 90% efficient
what does this mean?....It means that at the Lowest possible ohms running at FULL power your amp will only generate the specified % of actual wattage. The rest of the power is disapated heat energy ( which the companies tell you is wattage).
^^^for 90% of the people on the siccness im going to tell you your wasting your breathe. I made a thread awhile back titled "what ohm load you running your subs at" and the response was FUCK A OHM LOAD PULL UP NEXT TO ME. I am telling you, kids these days dont know shit about car audio. They think wattage is where its at. I had two Audiobahn Aw1200Q subs running at 1ohm stable they were no more than 1200W RMS total. But they had 120oz Double stacked magnets on them. I Outdid a fool with 4 Kicker L7s. That was a total of 3000w RMS. They are 750W a peace RMS. I think FUCK A OHM LOAD would be an incorrect statement. I have been around car audio for over 14yrs. The lack of apprecation has gone in the fuckin trash can. Best Buy and Circuit City is considered to be "Quality" now a days.
xraidedloc831....your probably right. Most people I talk to about this shyt have no clue when it comes to actaully running the shyt, let alone things like Telematics or Multiplexing. Which in itself is rather odd...you would think people investing money into something like that would want to know the ends and outs so they could get the best bang for there buck....guess not.
Yea i've been Installing for about 10 years...started doing them when I was 17...3 years later I went to The Installer Institue in Daytona Beach, Fl. I actually got to learn from one of the best Installer's alive(coarse that doesn't mean too much, being the student and being the teacher are two different things...lol). Arron Aroyo ( i think thats his name). He's the guy that trianed Fishman, ya know the dude who runs the Fishcamp custom school. Arron is a fuckin genius. He does this shyt like we breath. He stopped teaching though and the guy who he was mentoring now runs the school in florida. I've wanted to go back and really hone my skillz but...i mean shyt I sell cigars now and I don't really alot of custom work anymore.....but i still keep up with everything..or try to...ya know
Yea i've been Installing for about 10 years...started doing them when I was 17...3 years later I went to The Installer Institue in Daytona Beach, Fl. I actually got to learn from one of the best Installer's alive(coarse that doesn't mean too much, being the student and being the teacher are two different things...lol). Arron Aroyo ( i think thats his name). He's the guy that trianed Fishman, ya know the dude who runs the Fishcamp custom school. Arron is a fuckin genius. He does this shyt like we breath. He stopped teaching though and the guy who he was mentoring now runs the school in florida. I've wanted to go back and really hone my skillz but...i mean shyt I sell cigars now and I don't really alot of custom work anymore.....but i still keep up with everything..or try to...ya know
I have a question hopefully it can be caught in this 12 page thread but latley sometimes my system lets out a very low bass tone out of nowhere, it hurts my ears and it just happens out of nowhere. Anyone know what it is? I'm not treying to have my shit looked at and pay money for a little glitch if i can fix it myself.
I'll be pissed if my subs are about to blow i have the perfect amp for my system and i never push my shit. I paid alot of money for those and have only had them for like 3 years
I'll be pissed if my subs are about to blow i have the perfect amp for my system and i never push my shit. I paid alot of money for those and have only had them for like 3 years