THE CAR AUDIO THREAD..Q&A!

[xraidedloc831]

whats the deal with "military" products? like "military subwoofer" or speakers that are "certified for marine use"........is this just some sort of marketing plan using symbolism or some shit, or do they actually have different specs

Marine Audio is usually water proof or water resistant and requires special wiring that is cable of not corrode. Read below and I hope this helps.


Q: What kind of wires should I use to hook up my marine audio system?

A: When choosing wire for any kind of application on your boat, make sure the wire is stranded, at the very least, and tinned, if at all possible. According to the ABYC (American Boat and Yacht Council), only stranded copper wire is acceptable for marine wiring applications. Other metals, such as aluminum and steel, corrode too quickly and can't withstand the constant vibrations of a boat in motion. A thin coating of tin (or solder) applied to copper can further enhance the copper's resistance to corrosion, creating the longest-lasting wiring material you can put on your boat.

 

[SecondzAway]

Ok, so outta nowhere right after I start my car, my 4 channel amp starts to put out some kind of loud buzzing/whining sound through the speakers that changes with the current. Besides the ground, what should I check?

re-route all your wires.....best thing to do. Whats happening is well, theres no nice way to say this....your wires are crappy, and they are "bleeding" energy. Each set of wires create a very small electromagnetic forcefield. As your stereo plays they will emmit a small portion of the audio signal out of the wire and that will transfer into other power wires currently in the vehicle and Vise versa which is why you here that wine noise.

Re-routing all your wires and switching to high end sheilded cables is really the only long term solution to the problem.

 

[SecondzAway]

whats the difference between "componet" speakers and just regular ones

A component speaker is a car audio speaker matched for optimal sound quality. Typically a pair of tweeters and mid-bass drivers are matched with a crossover to limit the frequency range each speaker must accurately reproduce. Component speakers drivers are physically separated so the tweeter, which is very directional, can be placed in an optimal position, usually on the dash facing the listener, while the larger mid-bass driver can be placed where there is room, often in the lower front of the car doors. Component speaker pairs are offered by all of the high-end audio manufacturers.

 

[TONY206]

re-route all your wires.....best thing to do. Whats happening is well, theres no nice way to say this....your wires are crappy, and they are "bleeding" energy. Each set of wires create a very small electromagnetic forcefield. As your stereo plays they will emmit a small portion of the audio signal out of the wire and that will transfer into other power wires currently in the vehicle and Vise versa which is why you here that wine noise.

Re-routing all your wires and switching to high end sheilded cables is really the only long term solution to the problem.

I did all that months ago.

 

[SecondzAway]

well if you re-routed your wires and purchased higher quality shileded cables.....the only thing left to try is something that is only a theory.

The theory holds that running audio cables in "Pairs" generates a Positively charged magnetic field, but if you run them in "Three's" they will generate a negativley charged field which SHOULd block any in-comming signal.

To do this you will have to pull everything up again and run each set of Three or ( Odd number ) in different areas of your car and cover them from end to end in electric tape..........theres no garuantee that this works since it is just Car Audio Theory.....but I did it for several people back in cali and it worked for them........something to try if nothing else

 

[xraidedloc831]

up

 

[L.D.S.]

Don't buy Power Acoustik. It's the single worst mistake I've ever made. It hits hard, but my 2400 watt 12" sub has nothing on my old 800 watt Memphis 12". Stay away from that cheap shit.

 

[Hyfeeboy]

i was going to bring this thread up today too....


but heres my problem. i just recently un hooked my beat because it makes my car run like boo boo , when hooked up my acceleration used to be hella delayed and my voltage meter on the dash bounced with the beat of the music. lights also used to kinda dim with the beat . i know its not nothing too serious but what is needed? capacitor? stronger alternator?

edit: and how easy or hard is it to just run yo beat from a battery in the trunk?

 

[L.D.S.]

If the car runs fine while not influenced by your system, you can fix the problem with a capacitor. If it doesn't run right i.e. blinkers/wipers/headlights are acting up then you probably need to get a larger amped alternator.

 

[xraidedloc831]

I have answered the capacitor question before and I stand by my same answer.

"when your broke and dont have the money to spend on doing it right.this would be "the band-aid fix" By doing it right I mean double grounding your battery. Getting a better alternator and a bigger battery and running 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire or even 0 gauge in some cases. Take it from someone who did the band aid fix lol. I was like man i should have just did the alternator. I knew i couldnt afford it though. The capacitor worked to stop the dimming but that was my goal. if your goal is to stop voltage drops and dimming you this would be a temp fix. If your goal is to take strain off your battery and alternator from working so hard then your wasting your money and need to focus on the bigger problem. Upgrade the things mentioned above."

 

[Hyfeeboy]

I have answered the capacitor question before and I stand by my same answer.

"when your broke and dont have the money to spend on doing it right.this would be "the band-aid fix" By doing it right I mean double grounding your battery. Getting a better alternator and a bigger battery and running 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire or even 0 gauge in some cases. Take it from someone who did the band aid fix lol. I was like man i should have just did the alternator. I knew i couldnt afford it though. The capacitor worked to stop the dimming but that was my goal. if your goal is to stop voltage drops and dimming you this would be a temp fix. If your goal is to take strain off your battery and alternator from working so hard then your wasting your money and need to focus on the bigger problem. Upgrade the things mentioned above."

alright cool , money is never an issue. so the key is to get a stronger alternator and "bigger" battery? whats a bigger battery , a more expensive one?

 

[xraidedloc831]

(The Big 3)

Allot of Audio Enthusiasts recommend doing this.

1) Reduced dimming and smaller voltage drops
2) More stable voltage and better current flow
3) Less strain on your vehicle's charging system

1. Negative battery wire to ground - replace the negative battery terminal and wire with a bigger one and ground it to the factory location
2. Engine block to ground - replace the ground wire from the engine block to the chassis with a bigger wire (4 gauge or bigger)
3. Alternator to battery - add a fused wire from the postive post on you alternator (the one comming from the battery) to the postive terminal on your battery. Don't replace the factory wire, just add a extra one. Fuse it the same size as your factory fuse.

Also as far as a battery.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7324_Kinetik+HC+600.html
Product Description:

The original "Cap Killer" is more powerful than 100 1 farad capacitors! The HC600 is the true definition of extreme power in a small package. You can mount it near your amplifier for 850 amps of power reinforcement. This puppy easily starts a V8 engine!

AGM Technology
Sealed Non-Spillable Design
Mount In Any Position
Ultra Low ESR
More Plates For Stronger Energy Density
Higher Voltage Under Load
Tightly Packed Cells
Superior Heat & Vibration Resistance
Weight: 14 lbs.
Ah: 20
Amps: 850
Dimensions: 7" x 3" x 6.5"
No Warranty


This guy is pretty nice.