THE CAR AUDIO THREAD..Q&A!
- Thread starter xraidedloc831
- Start date
my girl will kick my ass if i drop a penny towards anymore car audio shit. the funny thing was. Sonicelectronix was fuckin up left and right with my order and if the sub box didnt arrive damaged I would have had it installed before I found out my girl was preg and I would have had a system right now lol Oh well I guess shit happens.
Q: so i have some 12's in my truck and an amp. if i were to drive like 8 hours and i wanted to remove the speakers and box*to make room for suitcase ect* would i need to remove the FUSE too? i have a switch set up in my car that i can turn off and it turns the amp off. so yeah what should i do? thanks.
how do you bridge 2 subs? basically i bought a ported box for my subs yesterday and the box has 2 speaker wire slots, left and right.it wouldnt be a problem if i had 2 amps , but i got one amp and when i "twist" the ends of the negatives and postives wires and put them in there slot on the amp, there is barely any bass or "power".
when i just hook up one set its all good , so right now i got one 12 poundin and the other sub not even hooked up. how do i set this up or is my amp not powerful enough to power both subs? dont ask for model #'s and everything because i dont know lol , all i know is pioneer 12's and bazooka amp
when i just hook up one set its all good , so right now i got one 12 poundin and the other sub not even hooked up. how do i set this up or is my amp not powerful enough to power both subs? dont ask for model #'s and everything because i dont know lol , all i know is pioneer 12's and bazooka amp
speaking of car audio, shit i was finally able to find some 4 gauge spade connectors. They dont make those things that heavy, after like 8 gauge you need ring terminals. Found them made by monster for only 4 bucks. I have hooking up the wires to the amp ghetto style just splitting the wire and screwing it down to the amp terminals.
Finally something I can talk about..lol...I went to school for this shyt at the Installer Institute in Daytona Beach, FL
Your amp is protecting itself. Everytime a wave sign ( cycle ) passes through the amp it has to have on tap or be able to draw the power it takes to duplicate the cycle. If your amp can't get the power it needs it will "Clip" or it will simply shut down for the duration of the note. If it didn't do that you would run a serious risk of frying your amp, which inturn would fry your speakers as well. Most amps when they short or fry expell the heat ( energy ) through the connections as your amp is still trying to protect itself by trying to get rid of everything, but in doing so the signal that leaves the amp when it reaches your speakers, would be like taking that machine at the hospital they use to jump start peoples hearts and zapping them while they were fine....fucced up is the end result...lol
there are 3 ways to get around your amp clipping.
1. Use the proper size power wire.- lets say you have a 1000watt class D amp ( 70% efficient ), if you used 8 gauge power wire to run that amp it would clip non-stop. Imagine sucking on a thick azz milkshake through a coffe straw. Does it work...sure it does but after a few sucks your gonna quit...the flow isnt right....same shyt applies to amps..they have to be able to suck that power as they need it....matching the proper size wire to the amp is imperative.
2. Use 2 batteries. - Not really cost effective by general standards, but running two batteris paralell will give your amps considerable room to breath without affecting the performance of your car. You'll still need the right size power wire....but you have a little leway here because of the added power.
3. Use a Capacitor. - Caps are one of the best ways to supplement power to your amps and keep them from clipping. With caps as long as they are in close proxcimity ( at least 18 inches ) you can even use smaller power wire if you can't afford the big stuff. Having the power on tap and with less distance to travel, really allows your amp to unwind. Also Digital caps with a voltage readout come in really handy for determining how much power your setup needs. You can watch the voltage rise and drop during a really good song with alot of bass. It should show you if you need more power or if what your running is fine
LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....Soder everything......No crimp caps, no twisting wires, no rolling up electrical tape...no of that ghetto shyt...lol...The main reason for sodering everything is simple...."Kerchoff's Voltage Law" states that anytime a power line is cut and re-connected you lose .01 volts through each place the line is severed. When you make connections that are not sodered that numbr can tripple or quadrouple.
So imagine in your entire system if you have 30-40 connections, none of which are sodered.....all the work you did installing everything and making it look nice...was for shit....you could have lost anywhere from 2-4 volts of power...."Thats not to much" you say....tell that to your amp when it tries to hit a 40 cycle sign sweep at 1000 watts....when your shyt starts to smoke or your speakers sound like there clapping...you'll be wishing you sodered that bitch.
Your amp is protecting itself. Everytime a wave sign ( cycle ) passes through the amp it has to have on tap or be able to draw the power it takes to duplicate the cycle. If your amp can't get the power it needs it will "Clip" or it will simply shut down for the duration of the note. If it didn't do that you would run a serious risk of frying your amp, which inturn would fry your speakers as well. Most amps when they short or fry expell the heat ( energy ) through the connections as your amp is still trying to protect itself by trying to get rid of everything, but in doing so the signal that leaves the amp when it reaches your speakers, would be like taking that machine at the hospital they use to jump start peoples hearts and zapping them while they were fine....fucced up is the end result...lol
there are 3 ways to get around your amp clipping.
1. Use the proper size power wire.- lets say you have a 1000watt class D amp ( 70% efficient ), if you used 8 gauge power wire to run that amp it would clip non-stop. Imagine sucking on a thick azz milkshake through a coffe straw. Does it work...sure it does but after a few sucks your gonna quit...the flow isnt right....same shyt applies to amps..they have to be able to suck that power as they need it....matching the proper size wire to the amp is imperative.
2. Use 2 batteries. - Not really cost effective by general standards, but running two batteris paralell will give your amps considerable room to breath without affecting the performance of your car. You'll still need the right size power wire....but you have a little leway here because of the added power.
3. Use a Capacitor. - Caps are one of the best ways to supplement power to your amps and keep them from clipping. With caps as long as they are in close proxcimity ( at least 18 inches ) you can even use smaller power wire if you can't afford the big stuff. Having the power on tap and with less distance to travel, really allows your amp to unwind. Also Digital caps with a voltage readout come in really handy for determining how much power your setup needs. You can watch the voltage rise and drop during a really good song with alot of bass. It should show you if you need more power or if what your running is fine
LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....Soder everything......No crimp caps, no twisting wires, no rolling up electrical tape...no of that ghetto shyt...lol...The main reason for sodering everything is simple...."Kerchoff's Voltage Law" states that anytime a power line is cut and re-connected you lose .01 volts through each place the line is severed. When you make connections that are not sodered that numbr can tripple or quadrouple.
So imagine in your entire system if you have 30-40 connections, none of which are sodered.....all the work you did installing everything and making it look nice...was for shit....you could have lost anywhere from 2-4 volts of power...."Thats not to much" you say....tell that to your amp when it tries to hit a 40 cycle sign sweep at 1000 watts....when your shyt starts to smoke or your speakers sound like there clapping...you'll be wishing you sodered that bitch.
That was the point of why I made the thread a while back. I was tired of answering all the seperate car audio threads. It was me, Sneak, Nasa, GimpyPimp and a few others I am forgetting that were always replying to the threads. I figured a entire forum where these main people could answer the questions to help out would be cool. Bplease didnt think it would be popular enough to have its own forum. So I made the thread to proove the point. Although he says I spammed it more than anyone else replied to it just to keep it alive so I think I lost lol. I still say its a good enough topic to make a forum about. He thinks creating more of a Auto forum would be more appropriate. I guess I could see both ways.
XRaided...you brought up the idea of a forum a long time ago...back when we were all posting alot more than we do now.
While a forum would be cool...I don't have the time to answer questions anymore...and I don't think Sneak even posts on here anymore...does he?
So that would leave you...I don't know...maybe there's some new people on here that have some experience.
While a forum would be cool...I don't have the time to answer questions anymore...and I don't think Sneak even posts on here anymore...does he?
So that would leave you...I don't know...maybe there's some new people on here that have some experience.