THE CAR AUDIO THREAD..Q&A!
- Thread starter xraidedloc831
- Start date
^^that sucks man but at least you gettin em replaced, but boy i remember the days when i used to be able to go " Eh new subs this weekend" live that shit up while you can hyfeeboy. Cause I tell ya that shit dont last long when you get older and responsibility kicks you in the ass lol. Also this time around make sure your not pushing them too hard and also check your ohm loads to make sure your not running them at a ohm load it is not stable at.
^^honestly, when your broke and dont have the money to spend on doing it right.they would be "the band-aid fix" By doing it right I mean double grounding your battery. Getting a better alternator and a bigger battery and running 4 gauge or 2 gauge wire or even 0 gauge in some cases. Take it from someone who did the band aid fix lol. I was like man i should have just did the alternator. I knew i couldnt afford it though. The capacitor worked to stop the dimming but that was my goal. if your goal is to stop voltage drops and dimming you this would be a temp fix. If your goal is to take strain off your battery and alternator from working so hard then your wasting your money and need to focus on the bigger problem. Upgrade the things mentioned above.
if you ground your car good enough you should be good.. im lazy so my shits grounded to the backseat post. But if i had time id ground it to the chassis. I bought some monster spade connectors to put into my amp instead of twisting the wire in there. I got em for $4.. gold plated too. Havent had a problem since.
^^^I left his question alone for you to answer but i think he wanted more of an in depth answer than just that. He wants to know more of what ohms are when talking subwoofers. You can describe it better than me. Why is it important to know own loads when it comes to wiring subs and shit like that. Tell him about series and parallel. I think this would be realavant.
^^Secondz I guess is busy so I guess I can answer. I found this via Crutchfield.com Its a pretty good answer.
Q: What do I need to know about impedance (OHMS) when wiring subs to an amplifier?
A: Impedance(OHMS) is the amount of resistance speakers provide to the current flowing from the amplifier. Every time you halve the speakers' impedance — switching from a 4-ohm to a 2-ohm sub, for instance — you effectively ask the amplifier to double its output. Some amps can handle this lower impedance, some cannot. The key thing to know about impedance, then, is how to match your speakers to the capabilities of your amp.
The typical car stereo amplifier is stable down to 4 ohms in mono (or bridged) mode or 2 ohms stereo. Some high performance amplifiers can operate safely with loads as low as 1/2-ohm in stereo (1-ohm mono). If you're designing a subwoofer system, ask yourself the following questions:
How many subs do I want? More subs = more cone surface area = more air moved = big bass! Balance this equation against the amount of room in your vehicle.
How much power do I want? If you're powering your vehicle's speakers with your receiver, you'll need less power for your subs. If you use a multi-channel outboard amp for your speakers, you'll need more power for your subs.
Q: What do I need to know about impedance (OHMS) when wiring subs to an amplifier?
A: Impedance(OHMS) is the amount of resistance speakers provide to the current flowing from the amplifier. Every time you halve the speakers' impedance — switching from a 4-ohm to a 2-ohm sub, for instance — you effectively ask the amplifier to double its output. Some amps can handle this lower impedance, some cannot. The key thing to know about impedance, then, is how to match your speakers to the capabilities of your amp.
The typical car stereo amplifier is stable down to 4 ohms in mono (or bridged) mode or 2 ohms stereo. Some high performance amplifiers can operate safely with loads as low as 1/2-ohm in stereo (1-ohm mono). If you're designing a subwoofer system, ask yourself the following questions:
How many subs do I want? More subs = more cone surface area = more air moved = big bass! Balance this equation against the amount of room in your vehicle.
How much power do I want? If you're powering your vehicle's speakers with your receiver, you'll need less power for your subs. If you use a multi-channel outboard amp for your speakers, you'll need more power for your subs.
no one ever answered my question about my problem with my beat maybe no one caught it in this long ass thread.
every so often i get a nasty pop when i'm playing my stereo and i dont know where its coming from. I have quality stuff and I dont hella yack out 24/7 ot nothing. Its like a pop and it scares the shit out of me when i'm driving cuz its hella random. First i blamed my subs so i cut them off but i can hear something with the subs off too, it just isnt nearly as bad. I want to figure this shit out without having to take it somewhere where they will try to hustle me. I have quality speakers, AMP good wires face. I'm not sure WTF is going on. I'll be listing to the Hus then pop it almost sounds like someone bumping into a microphone but its hella loud
every so often i get a nasty pop when i'm playing my stereo and i dont know where its coming from. I have quality stuff and I dont hella yack out 24/7 ot nothing. Its like a pop and it scares the shit out of me when i'm driving cuz its hella random. First i blamed my subs so i cut them off but i can hear something with the subs off too, it just isnt nearly as bad. I want to figure this shit out without having to take it somewhere where they will try to hustle me. I have quality speakers, AMP good wires face. I'm not sure WTF is going on. I'll be listing to the Hus then pop it almost sounds like someone bumping into a microphone but its hella loud
@ Loc...naw I was just bein a smartazz about it...lol
@Duke.....yea Loc got you the right info.....its more or less a mathematical problem. The ohm load on your subs needs to not only match but be compatible with your amp. Running the system for too long without the proper resistance you will ruin your speakers and you run a good chance of seriously damaging your amp.
Ohm loads are alot like shifting gears on your car. You can't be doin 90 in first gear, or 20 in 6th...either way it will ruin the shyt...ya know...they have to match the performance.
The best way ensure your ohm load is by using a DMM ( Digital Multi-Meter ). Even though your amp and subs might say there ohm load, it sometimes varies and in some cases it can varry as much as 2 ohms. Using a meter will ensure your ohm load is correct and it will allow you to adjust your ressitance accordingly.
@Duke.....yea Loc got you the right info.....its more or less a mathematical problem. The ohm load on your subs needs to not only match but be compatible with your amp. Running the system for too long without the proper resistance you will ruin your speakers and you run a good chance of seriously damaging your amp.
Ohm loads are alot like shifting gears on your car. You can't be doin 90 in first gear, or 20 in 6th...either way it will ruin the shyt...ya know...they have to match the performance.
The best way ensure your ohm load is by using a DMM ( Digital Multi-Meter ). Even though your amp and subs might say there ohm load, it sometimes varies and in some cases it can varry as much as 2 ohms. Using a meter will ensure your ohm load is correct and it will allow you to adjust your ressitance accordingly.
@jayda....well your looking at one of two things...probably
1. you simply have a short somewhere in the line and as it grounds out you get the speakers interpretation of the wave sign ( even though it really isn't one ).
2. ( this is simply a guess at your subs, nothing else ) Inside one of your subs the "Spider Coil" could be shot. The Spider is simply a very thin piece of metal, alot of times copper, that is the go between of the magnet and the cone. When the Spider coil is damaged you will somtimes here pops comming from your sub. .....The speaker cone will try to throw ( beat ) and the Spider will touch the sides of the magnet itself ( which it is not supposed to do ), when it touches you will here a pop. The poping noise comes from the speaker trying to complete the wave sign, which it can't. It will have a small electronic discharge as the spider touches the metal sides, and so the speaker play the pop noise.
However, the Spider normally doesn't go untill the speaker is blown. It does happen, but typically it happens because of a quality error in the manufactoring of the speaker, and not really so much a user issue.
Either way...take your shit to a MECP or CEA certified shop. Ask questions....if it sounds like there floating you an answer...take you ride and leave. Real professionals in the field who know what there doing can narrow down small problems like that and give you feasable answers without having to tear everything apart.
1. you simply have a short somewhere in the line and as it grounds out you get the speakers interpretation of the wave sign ( even though it really isn't one ).
2. ( this is simply a guess at your subs, nothing else ) Inside one of your subs the "Spider Coil" could be shot. The Spider is simply a very thin piece of metal, alot of times copper, that is the go between of the magnet and the cone. When the Spider coil is damaged you will somtimes here pops comming from your sub. .....The speaker cone will try to throw ( beat ) and the Spider will touch the sides of the magnet itself ( which it is not supposed to do ), when it touches you will here a pop. The poping noise comes from the speaker trying to complete the wave sign, which it can't. It will have a small electronic discharge as the spider touches the metal sides, and so the speaker play the pop noise.
However, the Spider normally doesn't go untill the speaker is blown. It does happen, but typically it happens because of a quality error in the manufactoring of the speaker, and not really so much a user issue.
Either way...take your shit to a MECP or CEA certified shop. Ask questions....if it sounds like there floating you an answer...take you ride and leave. Real professionals in the field who know what there doing can narrow down small problems like that and give you feasable answers without having to tear everything apart.
see i dont think its the subs because i turned my subs off for a couple of days and i can hear something, it just isnt as prominant when the sub isnt pushing it. I'm thinking i have a faulty connection somewhere I lightweight checked my connections and they seemed fine though. I would hate to have to spend whatever money a tech would charge me if it is something is really simple which it most likley is. I've had my stuff for 3 years and I have quality components and i dont ever overpower my system. I'm scared to play my stuff now though cuz this shit will pop without notice and scare the shit out of me possibly damaging my hearing and my speakers every time it happens