Need your beat or alarm installed?
- Thread starter FiveTension
- Start date
Ahhh ok lol. That explains it all then lol. I have a w7, but I used to have 2 w6's and I can imagine why your headlights dim. Now if you do replace your battery, your headlights MAY still dim because of your current setup. Try disconnecting the power to your amp by removing the fuse underneath your hood. Now turn up the volume some and see if you can notice even the slightest bit of your headlights dimming when the bass hits. If they dim out even just a little bit, getting a new battery may be the best route to take. Also what Ive *heard* is that the batteries that Stinger makes are the SHIT. I always thought Optima's were the shit but when I worked at a shop they sold more Stingers than Optima's. But I dont want to recommend which battery to get because I for one have never dealt with either. Whenever I need a battery replaced I look for the cheap ones lol. I dont need a uber super duper one. I dont really bump my shit unless on the freeway anyways. Already got a ticket for noise pollution in Fremont.
You can get a decent one for about $60-$100. If you want some name brand shit expect to pay more. Wal-Mart does have some for like $35-$45 I believe and Ive even installed it in my boys car. He just wanted it for the looks cause he ripped off the cover and re-painted it to match his car. He 'says' that he noticed that his headlights are brighter, but his headlights never dimmed neither. So... I cant say for sure that the Wal-Mart brand is the way to go, but if you've got bread to waste, then I guess it wouldnt hurt to try?!
If you were going to run an amp for your new speakers, then wiring it up to the amp shouldnt be that hard because the wires would be coming from the amp rather than the deck. What kind of truck do you have? Year?
You can get a decent one for about $60-$100. If you want some name brand shit expect to pay more. Wal-Mart does have some for like $35-$45 I believe and Ive even installed it in my boys car. He just wanted it for the looks cause he ripped off the cover and re-painted it to match his car. He 'says' that he noticed that his headlights are brighter, but his headlights never dimmed neither. So... I cant say for sure that the Wal-Mart brand is the way to go, but if you've got bread to waste, then I guess it wouldnt hurt to try?!
If you were going to run an amp for your new speakers, then wiring it up to the amp shouldnt be that hard because the wires would be coming from the amp rather than the deck. What kind of truck do you have? Year?
Depends on what kind of car? What year? I'll be up front right now and tell you that if you have a Neon like a 90's model... I dont want to do it for cheap. Anyone that has or has tried to install actuators in a Neon knows wassup on how hard those can be. The first time I did one took me half the day at work, and I work on comission
and you CAN hook up amps to altanators right? or some other power source other then the vhicles main battery? because i have one amp on right now and its having problems (with the lights and starting) and i have an more powerful amp for my mids/highs then for my w6......
im pretty sure it would be costly and not sure if imma do it.....but it is something i need to look into
im pretty sure it would be costly and not sure if imma do it.....but it is something i need to look into
Did you upgrade your wiring harness for your bulbs? Ive seen and even experienced burnt harness's cause of those bulbs. But now I had the real deal HID type in my car with the ballasts and all. Way bigger difference, and Id definately put them in all cars I own in the future.
Lets say you have an amp already hooked up right... so disconnect your amp, and connect your cap. Then you can power your amp from the cap also, so you may need to get some extra power wire. But some caps require you to charge them first, so read the instructions before you install just in case it asks you to charge them.
Im pretty sure you can hook up amps to alternators (Ive never done it, nor seen it done) but the alternator is also hooked up to the main battery so I highly doubt it would help. But if someone else knows for sure please correct me if Im wrong. How many volts are your pre-outs on your deck? Do you have your gains on your amp tuned up real high? Is your system properly tuned? You can try setting your gains low to help the flickering, if its not already low. If your pre-outs gave out a good amount of voltage, your amp wouldnt need to do that much work to power your subs. I can get real technical about tuning your setup, but Id have to know exactly what you have so I know what the specs are.
Lets say you have an amp already hooked up right... so disconnect your amp, and connect your cap. Then you can power your amp from the cap also, so you may need to get some extra power wire. But some caps require you to charge them first, so read the instructions before you install just in case it asks you to charge them.
Im pretty sure you can hook up amps to alternators (Ive never done it, nor seen it done) but the alternator is also hooked up to the main battery so I highly doubt it would help. But if someone else knows for sure please correct me if Im wrong. How many volts are your pre-outs on your deck? Do you have your gains on your amp tuned up real high? Is your system properly tuned? You can try setting your gains low to help the flickering, if its not already low. If your pre-outs gave out a good amount of voltage, your amp wouldnt need to do that much work to power your subs. I can get real technical about tuning your setup, but Id have to know exactly what you have so I know what the specs are.
Whenever Tech is featured on someones song from the Bay, I like how uses "HYPHY" in them songs lol. Hella exaggerates the word, but its sick.
To be honest there are alot of good subs out, and it all really depends on the listener. I have a 12w7 and Ive had it for years now, and I dont plan on changing it. I have a cheap amp powering it, but I dont give a fuck cause it does its job good enough for me.
Do you want some pretty lookin subs that hit? Digital Designs (DD) branded subs seem to be popular around the competetion circuits. RE aint bad, and XXX subs are sick too.
I make boxes, but its not really my thing. I can do simple boxes no problem. Fiberglassing Im barely getting the hang of so I dont know if you'd want me to do some fiberglass shit lol. For some reason I find that carpetting boxes is the hardest part for me I dont know why.
With or without teeth? I dont know about Pak n Save, but she'll stroke your penis in a rapid motion going to Wal-Mart
To be honest there are alot of good subs out, and it all really depends on the listener. I have a 12w7 and Ive had it for years now, and I dont plan on changing it. I have a cheap amp powering it, but I dont give a fuck cause it does its job good enough for me.
Do you want some pretty lookin subs that hit? Digital Designs (DD) branded subs seem to be popular around the competetion circuits. RE aint bad, and XXX subs are sick too.
I make boxes, but its not really my thing. I can do simple boxes no problem. Fiberglassing Im barely getting the hang of so I dont know if you'd want me to do some fiberglass shit lol. For some reason I find that carpetting boxes is the hardest part for me I dont know why.
With or without teeth? I dont know about Pak n Save, but she'll stroke your penis in a rapid motion going to Wal-Mart
But when the cap gets discharged it gets power from the battery in order to recharge. So in theory, you are draining your battery as much because your alternator is also drawing power at the same time. But of course this is all assuming he has a sufficient gauged wire.
Ive heard alot of people say upgrading the big 3 would give you the same if not better results than a cap. I would definately upgrade the big 3 in any car with a system in it. Its cheap, it doesnt take long to install, and improving the vehicles stock grounding system cant hurt. All in all, upgrading the big 3 would probably cost you no more than $20 if you get some real nice wire. $10 may even be enough.
From The12Volt.com:
--They won't help prevent alternator failure.
--They can't store very much charge, so they don't help with longer musical peaks, like sustained bass notes.
--They don't make the bass louder: higher voltage isn't the same as higher gain.
--They don't help if an alternator is just too small, and is continuously overloaded.
--They won't necessarily reduce dimming much, because they still need to be recharged.
--High-farad capacitors typically have a high internal resistance which makes them useless. In general, it's better to have five 1-farad capacitors than one 5-farad capacitor.
Ive heard alot of people say upgrading the big 3 would give you the same if not better results than a cap. I would definately upgrade the big 3 in any car with a system in it. Its cheap, it doesnt take long to install, and improving the vehicles stock grounding system cant hurt. All in all, upgrading the big 3 would probably cost you no more than $20 if you get some real nice wire. $10 may even be enough.
From The12Volt.com:
--They won't help prevent alternator failure.
--They can't store very much charge, so they don't help with longer musical peaks, like sustained bass notes.
--They don't make the bass louder: higher voltage isn't the same as higher gain.
--They don't help if an alternator is just too small, and is continuously overloaded.
--They won't necessarily reduce dimming much, because they still need to be recharged.
--High-farad capacitors typically have a high internal resistance which makes them useless. In general, it's better to have five 1-farad capacitors than one 5-farad capacitor.
I cant really quote you on that. Reason being is that theres a lot of things that go into factor: type of car (some cars are harder than others), what size gauge wire you want to run (running thicker wires are more difficult than thinner ones but some are necessary), and how many subs/amps you want to put in.
If you give me all that info then I can quote you. If its a car that Ive done before, or one that I know is going to be easy then obviously the price will be right. On the other hand if its a harder car to work on then we'd have to talk
If you give me all that info then I can quote you. If its a car that Ive done before, or one that I know is going to be easy then obviously the price will be right. On the other hand if its a harder car to work on then we'd have to talk