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NASA

Sicc OG
Feb 5, 2003
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#44
I'd love to be able to blow dough and get top quality subs but it's just not that important to me and besides I'm not entering any soundoffs anytime soon anyways. I'd rather get some decent subs that will still knock and blow the remainder of my money on something like parts for my car.
 
Oct 9, 2002
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#45
nothin wrong with 6 x 9's .... i got MB Quart 3 ways and they sound amazing... you just need a good amp and to actually get good speakers like MB or Focal and you are fine.

and to the original poster... get a good amp to push your stuff... a shitty amp can make good speakers sound shitty. The JL 300/4 is pretty decent.
 
Apr 25, 2002
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#46
NASA said:
I'd love to be able to blow dough and get top quality subs but it's just not that important to me and besides I'm not entering any soundoffs anytime soon anyways. I'd rather get some decent subs that will still knock and blow the remainder of my money on something like parts for my car.
thats exacly how i felt. If i had to cash to blow on the good shit I would. I got bills to think about though....ahhh to be young again...if only lol.
 
May 2, 2002
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#47
AGENT707 said:
fo sho...

but he said if he went with better shit it wouldnt have happened at all...
Audiobahn's don't put any more strain on your electrical system than say...JL Audio.

If you're running 2000 watts, you're running 2000 watts. It doesn't matter what brand you run.

A cap and battery would help...but it all starts with the alternator.

I would recommend he get a new alternator.
 
Apr 25, 2002
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#48
^^thats what I am sayin. Regardless of speakers it dont matter like gimpypimp said, if your running 2000 watt audiobahns or 2000 watt JLs both still need power from the same source.

Also @RoseTownRyda

I just knowticed you asked two questions and no answer so here ya go.

1: no you cant hook up that one amp to everything cause most amps have a built in high pass or low pass filter. low for bass and high for the regular speakers. Technicly you could set it to FULL and then you would get all but this sounds like shit cause then your subs are limited to hit only as hard as the 6x9s allow before crackling.

2: if that 1200W amp is truely 1200W RMS then ya i think it would work. I am running a Boss Riot 2200 D class amp to mine right now.
 
Apr 25, 2002
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#49
@gimpypimp

I asked my homie who is an audio installer, what he thought about your point on if they cheap its for a reason and he had this too say,

its not all about the subwoofer or how much money u spent on the subs, its about how much power u put to them and have the amps tuned correctly, let alone have amps that are sufficient and do no put out dirty power or the noise to distortion ratio is minimal. also you need to have the car dynamatted, and the spray shield in areas u cant get dynamt in. there are may ways to increase your DB's without having to spend a shit load of money on the subs.
i laugh at people who brag about having spents $600.00 per sub and oh wow look how hard they hit. that doesnt impress me, what impresses me is the person who spends $250.00 or less per sub and has the sub box built to specs and is designed right. who purchase not the most expensive amp but the amp that puts out excellent power, whom has the car dynamatted to keep in the sound and keep the rattling to a minimum and sounds just as good as any system someone paid $4000.00 for and he only paid half that

as far as the bulletproof glass thing, if in fact he had bullet proof glass and im not sure if it was either the box made of it or the windows or whatever, the thickness of it which is usually 2 inches thick or more is that its not allowing any of the bass to escape its acts as an enclosure so what there is minimal leakage for the sound to escape, in the sense he made the car sound proof where as all the sound in the car stays inside which will increase the db let alone keep the db's at a constant level becuz theres no escape of pressure.

also if i had to money spending the same amount you did for those Eclipse TI subs I would have got this. These handle 2000W RMS. My homie also said comparing yours to mine the only thing you have over me looks like a bigger magnet which could very well be my undoing if we did compete ever hehe. ITs all love though you know that dogg just dont want this thread to die.

 
Oct 9, 2002
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#50
only knock on audiobahn i heard is that the power is supposedly overrated from the factory.. as in the same sense that JL underrates... those jl 500/1's were tested at like 690 watts or somethin instead of the 500 claimed
 
May 2, 2002
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#51
xraidedloc831 said:
@gimpypimp

its not all about the subwoofer or how much money u spent on the subs, its about how much power u put to them and have the amps tuned correctly, let alone have amps that are sufficient and do no put out dirty power or the noise to distortion ratio is minimal. also you need to have the car dynamatted, and the spray shield in areas u cant get dynamt in. there are may ways to increase your DB's without having to spend a shit load of money on the subs.
I agree.

xraidedloc831 said:
i laugh at people who brag about having spents $600.00 per sub and oh wow look how hard they hit. that doesnt impress me, what impresses me is the person who spends $250.00 or less per sub and has the sub box built to specs and is designed right. who purchase not the most expensive amp but the amp that puts out excellent power, whom has the car dynamatted to keep in the sound and keep the rattling to a minimum and sounds just as good as any system someone paid $4000.00 for and he only paid half that
I agree again. But let me add...people spend that much on subs because they are top of the line subs and handle more power. You can't tell me that some brands are not better than others. And as you know...there are different models from each brand. Some are for noobs and people who just want to add a little something...and then there are the more expensive subs for people who want really loud bass or want to compete.

I could have spent $250 for a sub that handles 450 watts...but I already had that. I wanted an upgrade, and I also wanted to compete every now and then. I also wanted a brand that had a good reputation for making quality subs...and I wanted the warranty. I could have got these for $250 from some people, but you don't get the warranty. So I spent $400 on mine.

xraidedloc831 said:
as far as the bulletproof glass thing, if in fact he had bullet proof glass and im not sure if it was either the box made of it or the windows or whatever, the thickness of it which is usually 2 inches thick or more is that its not allowing any of the bass to escape its acts as an enclosure so what there is minimal leakage for the sound to escape, in the sense he made the car sound proof where as all the sound in the car stays inside which will increase the db let alone keep the db's at a constant level becuz theres no escape of pressure.
It was his windows...all his windows had bullet proof glass. I've seen it before, so it didn't surprise me...but it just sucked that I had to go against him. He competes professionally so he pretty much blew me away.

xraidedloc831 said:
also if i had to money spending the same amount you did for those Eclipse TI subs I would have got this. These handle 2000W RMS. My homie also said comparing yours to mine the only thing you have over me looks like a bigger magnet which could very well be my undoing if we did compete ever hehe. ITs all love though you know that dogg just dont want this thread to die.
2000W RMS is WAY too much for me. I'm an every day driver that just likes to compete every now and then...nothing too serious. And yeah...my TI's are coo...not top of the line...but they can handle themselves pretty well.
 
Apr 25, 2002
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#52
^^I think i blew my shit. I was dumpin my system today and the subs just stopped. Went back to the trunk and the amps LED light was still green and when i push in on the subs they kick for a sec and i have seen that before usully means they blow.
 
Apr 25, 2002
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#54
^^dont say it too soon....The subs are not blown!!!!

The amp I have took a shit but the weird thing is, the green LED light is lit. its a BOSS RIOT 2200 D class amp. When I tap on the amp with my hand the subs kick again for a sec. I talked to boss and one of my homies and both had the same thing to say, They both think its a cold solder issue with the board. A connection came loose so when my homie gets back from vaction he is gonna open up the amp board and test it out and then fix it.

and also MR PIMP lolol i have had these subs for almost 3 years now with no problem so you know what you can do with your i told you so's.
 
Jun 5, 2004
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#55
i just got new 5 1/4 inch speakers, and i notice they work better at night or on a cold day. wtf is up with that? like i can crank em when its cold out, they sound crisper.
 
May 2, 2002
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#56
xraidedloc831 said:
and also MR PIMP lolol i have had these subs for almost 3 years now with no problem so you know what you can do with your i told you so's.
Hey...I was nice.

I said hopefully it's a wire...and it looks like that may be the case. I could have been an asshole and said what I really feel about your Audiobahn's... :classic:
 
May 27, 2002
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#58
What do people on here think of CROSSFIRE subs? I went down to the local stereo shop, and this is what they recommended. I'm looking for SQ and clarity opposed to just bass. I currently have Rockford Fosgate HX2 12" sub that I believe I may have blown. The sub is cool, it hits, but I don't think it hits clearly. How would a CROSSFIRE sub compare to the HX2 in terms of SQ and LP? I'm reffering to the CROSSFIRE BMF 1228 model.

http://www.crossfirecaraudio.com/frameset.asp